Makeup

has been worn by both men and women for thousands of years, with the earliest evidence dating back to Egypt around 6000 BCE [1, 2].  While the types and uses of makeup have changed over time, it continues to play a significant role in modern society. Throughout history, a major focus has been on enhancing the eyes—whether to make them darker, lighter, larger, smaller, or more expressive. In the past decade, the rise of media and content creation has led to an overwhelming influx of ads, influencers, beauty “trends”, and countless options for consumers.

 Many of the substances used in the early history of makeup, such as lead, mercury, and sulfur, have been found to be toxic [1]. It wasn’t until the early 20th century that safety started to become a priority in cosmetics. Today, regulations are in place to ensure that the products we use are safe. For example, Health Canada has banned or restricted over 500 ingredients from cosmetics [3], while the European Union has prohibited over 1,700. In contrast, the U.S. has only banned or restricted 11 [5]. Additionally, Canadian legislation requires that ingredients must be listed on products from most to least, so the first ingredient on the list is the one that’s used the most, and the last one is used the least [6]. 

  As the demand for better makeup products increased, the “Clean Beauty” trend began to rise in popularity. While the term “clean beauty” has been around since the 1990s [7], its popularity has surged more in recent years. In the late 1990s and early 2000s, clean beauty products were mainly those made with all-natural ingredients. Today, clean beauty refers to cosmetics made with non-toxic, safe, and eco-friendly ingredients. While better products benefit the overall health of makeup wearers, the eye area is especially sensitive; therefore, “clean” products are not necessarily the same as “eye-safe” makeup.

 

What makeup is eye-safe?

Much remains unknown about the effects of makeup on the eyes, but some individuals with dry eye disease can attest to the discomfort that eye makeup can cause. Unfortunately for makeup wearers, no makeup can ever be completely eye-safe. There will always be risks of mechanical injuries, eye infections, and potential long-term effects. However, there are ways to minimize the impact of makeup on our eyes.

Eye-Friendly Makeup Tips:

(1) Replace makeup as recommended:

All cosmetics feature a symbol indicating how long they remain safe to use after being opened. Typically found near the ingredients, this symbol resembles an open jar and includes a number and a letter. The letter is usually “M” for months or “Y” for years, while the number shows how many months or years the product stays stable once opened. Liquid eye makeup, specifically mascara, should be replaced every 3 months to prevent the buildup of bacteria and other microorganisms [9]. Additionally, makeup should always be discarded if used during an eye infection. Although makeup may not “expire” in the traditional sense, it can become contaminated with harmful bacteria, viruses, fungi, and other microorganisms.

 

(2) Regularly clean makeup applicators:

Sponges and brushes can harbor bacteria such as Staphylococcus aureus [10]. Whenever possible, use freshly washed hands to apply makeup, and avoid sharing makeup or applicators.

 

(3) Thoroughly remove makeup:

Dry eye disease is more common among individuals who wear makeup compared to those who do not. Inadequate removal of makeup further increases the risk of developing issues related to dry eye disease [8].

 

(4) Avoid using waterproof makeup:

The chemicals used in waterproof makeup can be harsh on individuals with dry eye disease [11]. Its hydrophobic properties disrupt natural tear production and distribution, particularly affecting the watery (aqueous) layer of the tear film. Waterproof makeup is also challenging to remove, potentially leading to eyelid abrasions, blockages in the meibomian gland openings, and fostering bacterial or microorganism growth, including demodex mites. Additionally, the oily residues from waterproof makeup removers may contribute to meibomian gland blockages[12], increasing the risk of styes.

 

(5) Avoid glitter and powder eye shadows with large particles:

These particles can end up under the eyelid leading to scratches, or embedded into the cornea, causing severe discomfort [11,12].

 

(6) Do not put makeup on the waterline:

Although popular for creating a smoky look with black eyeliner or a more alert appearance with white eyeliner, the waterline is highly sensitive. This area contains the openings of the meibomian glands, and applying makeup here can block these glands, leading to tear film imbalances, bacterial buildup, styes, and inflammation. Chronic blockages may result in meibomian gland dysfunction, dry eye disease, or even gland atrophy. Other concerns are eye infections due to contaminated makeup, and corneal scratching due to makeup particles flaking off into the eye [11].

 

(7) Never use saliva to apply or remove makeup:

The human mouth is one of the most bacteria-rich areas of the body, harboring billions of germs across over 600 species—making it more contaminated than the average public toilet seat. No amount of brushing will ever fully eliminate the bacteria in our mouths. While this bacterial biome supports oral health, it poses a risk of infection if introduced to the eyes. Although the eyes have natural defenses against foreign germs, it is impossible to guarantee the eye’s defenses are completely fortified.

 

(8) Take breaks:

Since makeup use can exacerbate dry eye disease symptoms, consider having light or no makeup days to help ease discomfort.

 

(9) Only use makeup around the eyes that is specifically designed for the eye area:

Many ingredients in non-eye makeup can irritate the delicate skin and tissues in and around the eyes. These products often migrate into the eyes, leading to increased irritation.

 

 

 

What is the best makeup for dry eyes?

Makeup use contributes to the prevalence of dry eye disease, with approximately 70% of daily wearers reporting symptoms. Of that 70%, around 40% were considered severe [8]. As further research is done and new products are developed, we can hope for more truly “eye-safe” solutions. In the meantime, being mindful of the products used around our eyes, and following the tips mentioned above are the best ways to combat eye sensitivities and dry eye symptoms. Additionally, incorporating the dry eye care routine at home can also help alleviate and prevent symptoms of dry eye disease. 

Recommendations for Sensitive Eyes:

twenty / twenty beauty Clean Sweep Mascara

A clean, water-resistant treatment mascara that creates defined, lengthened and stronger lashes both immediately and over time. Packed with nourishing hyaluronic acid, vitamin E & biotin, the eye-safe formula helps hydrate and strengthen lashes and won’t irritate sensitive eyes. The clump-free, buildable mascara is perfect for every-day wear.

• Safe for sensitive eyes, dry eyes & contact lenses
• Free of parabens, carbon black & coal tar dyes
• Ophthalmologist developed & tested
• Vegan & cruelty-free

 

I like this mascara because it does not irritate my eyes. It stays put and makes my lashes look full and long!

 

twenty / twenty beauty Double Duty Precision Liner

Line your lids with safe and gentle ingredients to promote healthier, fuller-looking lashes with continued use. Many eyeliners, especially when applied to the waterline, can cause allergic reactions and irritation as well as potentially lead to dry eye disease later in life. This ophthalmologist-tested liquid liner formula won’t flake off, stain, or otherwise irritate the eye while adding definition to your lash line. With regular use, the eye-safe ingredients also promote thicker, fuller-looking lashes over time.

 

This is a great liquid liner. It also doesn’t irritate my eyes, and glides nicely over eyeshadow. There are a couple reasons why I prefer the Eye Proof Liquid Liner over this one though. Firstly, the tip is more bendy than what I am used to, so it was a learning curve to apply accurately. Secondly, to get more liner, you have to dip the wand back into the reservoir, which I find makes the application a little uneven, requiring a second coat. I still prefer this liner over others I have used in the past, but it is not my favourite of the 2!

 

ÈYES ARE THE STORY Eye Proof Liquid Liner

Define your eye drama with our precision liner, encased in a sleek felt-tipped pen. Enjoy a creep-free, easy glide—from the thinnest of lines to the boldest strokes. Free of: Fragrance/Parfum, Phthalates, Parabens, Gluten, GMO’s. Made in Canada.

• Dermatologist and Ophthalmologist tested
• Rooted in eye science and advanced knowledge in Optocosmetics
• Hyaluronic Acid with a proprietary preservative system: promotes safe and comfortable daily wear
• Highly pigmented proprietary formula: non-flaking, non-drying, non-burning, non-irritating
• Safe for sensitive eyes, dry eyes, contact lens wearers
• Vegan + Cruelty-Free
• Audited by Mayo Clinic’s SkinSafe platform

 

This is by far the best liquid liner I have ever used. The tip is equally sturdy and bendable, allowing for precise application. The tip doesn’t dry out like several other liquid liners I’ve tried, glides smoothly over eyeshadow, and doesn’t smudge easily. It lasts all day and my eyes feel less dry. 

 

BlephaSol Duo

Eyelid care made simple. Minimalist formula with only 7 ingredients + water

• Gently removes impurities, allergens and makeup
  • – No scrubbing or stinging
  • – No rinsing needed
• Comes with 100 high-quality, lint-free application pads
• Can be used up to 3 months after opening
• Suitable for contact lens wearers
• Pleasant to use every day, hydrating your eyelids as you cleanse

 

This eye-friendly micellar “lotion” effectively removes makeup without harming the eyes. A couple drops per eye is all I need to remove my eye makeup. It leaves my skin feeling hydrated, and does not irritate my skin. The pads that come with it are very soft, and they don’t leave any particles behind.

After I remove my makeup with BlephaSol, and wash my face, I like to follow up with a lid wipe to get any makeup I may have missed and to ensure my lashes and water lines are clean.

 

I-Lid ‘n Lash Hygiene Wipes

Reduces bioburden and removes ocular debris while enhancing the effectiveness of eye drops. Used daily, I-LID ’N LASH® is effective in maintaining lid and lash health for patients with dry eyes or sensitive skin. Convenient, easy to use pre-soaked wipes (60 per jar / can be used for up to six months after opening).

• Effective water-based cleanser
• Hydrating ingredients with added glycerin for superior moisturizing
• Helps to soothe the delicate skin around the eyes
• Contains hyaluronic acid
• Does not sting, burn, or irritate sensitive eyes
• Paraben-free
• Ophthalmologist & dermatologist tested
• Hypoallergenic

 

BlephaClean Wipes

Individually packaged sterile cleansing pads for the daily hygiene of eyelids and eyelashes. 

• Gentle: Preservative, detergent, paraben and perfume-free.
• Effective: Contains ingredients which clean, moisturize and soothe.
• Convenient: Ready-to-use pads that can be used at home daily or on-the-go, whenever they’re needed.
• Safe to use in children as young as 3 months.

 

I love how both eyelid wipes make my eyes feel. They are both so soothing, hydrating and non-irritating. There’s no need to rinse the eye area after either.

The Lid ‘n Lash wipes are more saturated. I usually prefer to cut the wipe in half and use one half for each eye. 

I always keep a few BlephaClean wipes tucked in my makeup bag and even my carry-on while travelling. It is very refreshing to clean my eyes after a long flight.

 

 

BlephaDerm

Soothing eyelid and eye contour cream for hydrating, protecting and repairing the delicate eyelid skin that supports ocular health.

• Preservative-free, perfume-free and sterile
• Minimalist, and made with only essential ingredients
• Designed with ingredients that support your eyelid microbiota
• Made with Trehalose which provides bioprotection and replenishes the skin moisture barrier, Hyaluronic Acid for hydration and comfort, Ophiopogon Japonicus to address itchy, irritated and red skin, reducing puffiness, and 9 additional ingredients and water.

BlephaDerm is my final step of my night routine after the eyelid wipes. As someone who suffers from dry skin (who doesn’t living in Alberta?) I moisturize religiously. Previously, I would never put lotion too close to my eyes as it caused my eyes to burn. BlephaDerm adds an extra boost of moisture, as well as reducing the look of puffiness on the eyes. Keep it in a cool place for an extra soothing boost in the summer!

 

 

Resources:

[1] Sullivan DA, da Costa AX, Del Duca E, Doll T, Grupcheva CN, Lazreg S, Liu SH, McGee SR, Murthy R, Narang P, Ng A, Nistico S, O’Dell L, Roos J, Shen J, Markoulli M. TFOS Lifestyle: Impact of cosmetics on the ocular surface. Ocul Surf. 2023 Jul;29:77-130. doi: 10.1016/j.jtos.2023.04.005. Epub 2023 Apr 13. PMID: 37061220; PMCID: PMC11246752.

[2] A History of Cosmetics. (n.d.). cosmeticsinfo.org. Retrieved December 12, 2024, from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/history-of-cosmetics/

[3] Health Canada. (2024, May 17). Cosmetic ingredient hotlist. Canada.ca. https://www.canada.ca/en/health-canada/services/consumer-product-safety/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredient-hotlist-prohibited-restricted-ingredients/hotlist.html

[4] Cosmetics regulations in Canada. (2024, March 21). Retrieved December 12, 2024, from https://www.cosmetri.com/cosmetics-regulations-canada/#:~:text=Restricted%20and%20Prohibited%20Ingredients&text=Canadian%20Cosmetic%20Regulations%20currently%20prohibit,restricts%20more%20than%201%2C700%20ingredients

[5] Prohibited & Restricted Ingredients in Cosmetics. (2022, February 25). fda.gov. Retrieved December 12, 2024, from https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-laws-regulations/prohibited-restricted-ingredients-cosmeticsProhibited & Restricted Ingredients in Cosmetics. (2022, February 25). fda.gov. Retrieved December 12, 2024, from https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-laws-regulations/prohibited-restricted-ingredients-cosmetics

[6] Health Canada. (2024, October 22). Regulatory information for cosmetics. Canada.ca. https://www.canada.ca/en/health-canada/services/consumer-product-safety/cosmetics/regulatory-information.html#a1

[7] The Dirt on Clean Beauty. (2023, January 9). nytimes.com. https://www.nytimes.com/2023/01/04/style/clean-beauty.html#:~:text=Where%20did%20the%20term%20’clean,market%2C%20has%20different%20regulatory%20standards.

[8] Albdaya NA, Binyousef FH, Alrashid MH, Alajlan AA, Alsharif FA, Alfouzan SK, Alhuthail RR. Prevalence of Dry Eye Disease and Its Association With the Frequent Usage of Eye Cosmetics Among Women. Cureus. 2022 Jul 22;14(7):e27142. doi: 10.7759/cureus.27142. PMID: 36017302; PMCID: PMC9393024.

[9] Pack LD, Wickham MG, Enloe RA, Hill DN. Microbial contamination associated with mascara use. Optometry. 2008 Oct;79(10):587-93. doi: 10.1016/j.optm.2008.02.011. PMID: 18922495.

[10] Cohut, M., PhD. (2019, December 6). Dirty Makeup Sponges Harbor Dangerous Bacteria. MedicalNewsToday. https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/327221#Bacteria-present-in-70-90-of-products

[11] Knight, T. (2023, October 12). I’m an eye doctor — here’s why you should avoid waterproof makeup. New York Post. https://nypost.com/2023/10/12/eye-doctor-shares-why-you-should-avoid-waterproof-makeup/

[12] Wang MT, Craig JP. Investigating the effect of eye cosmetics on the tear film: current insights. Clin Optom (Auckl). 2018 Apr 3;10:33-40. doi: 10.2147/OPTO.S150926. PMID: 30214340; PMCID: PMC6118859.

[13] FAAO, C. W. S. O. (2010, April 7). Spit in your eye. https://www.reviewofcontactlenses.com/article/spit-in-your-eye

[14] Ochsner Health System & Ochsner Health. (2022, August 9). 7 things dirtier than the average toilet seat. Ochsner Health System. https://blog.ochsner.org/articles/germ-alert-7-things-dirtier-than-the-average-toilet-seat

 

 

 

 

Written and researched by Holly, one of our Ocular Hygienists